SALAMANCA IN STYLE

Its always a wrench to leave for another place. Five days in Chueca, Madrid, with some great company made me feel sad to be leaving. However, once I had got a ticket and found the bus it all became easier . The avanza bus ticket costs about 20 euro and with 25% off for oldies it became a very reasonable price. But the bus was real luxury with only 3 seats across with padded simulated leather that would not have looked out of place in an upmarket car. 


The bus pulled into a rather shabby old bus station, unlike the new modern ones I'd got used to in Madrid. Out on the street I was once again frustrated by misinformation as I tried to get a bus to the hostel. Information on the web site said No 4 bus, and in reality it was No 13 I needed. Not speaking the language makes problems like this infinitely worse. ROUTE



After an hour of sleep headed out into the old city which does seem to have a few too many cathedrals for a city of this size. Saw several storks already in residence on their twiggy makeshift nests. Perhaps the towers and spires appeal to them.

FREEZING IN SEGOVIA

Snow covered peaks are visible from Madrid but I didn't expect to be amongst them. Segovia lies just on the other side of those wintry peaks and has a weather to match.

Getting there is pretty straight forward with a bus from Principe Pio bus station, which is on the metro system, and costs 15 euros return. The train is probably more expensive and also the train station is some distance from the old centre of Segovia, unlike the bus station which is less than 10 min walk from the Roman aqueduct.  

An impressive structure indeed considering how long ago it was built. Segovia is small so the walk past the cathedral to the castle, or Alcazar, takes little time through some typical narrow Spanish streets.

It is said that Walt Disney got the idea of the castle for Disney Land from here. It does have a similarity from certain angles. Its 5 euros entrance and 2 more to go up the tower but I paid 3 euro reduced rate and the tower didn't really appeal being so cold. Segovia is just below the snow line looking at the nearby hills behind the aqueduct above. 

Excellent views from the castle windows and some pretty fancy ceilings inside. Its had a long and complicated history starting with the Romans, then the Arabs and then to the Royalty of Spain. It was even a prison and a military school for periods of time. Of course rather a lot of renovation took place after all that. Cant imagine a prison looking like this.  

A view from the Alcazar

Before I set off for Segovia the guy at the hostel reception suggested I try the suckling pig that Segovia is famous for. The prices here are all way up and this delicacy was sure to be an experience to avoid, unless I wanted to spend the next 4 days food budget on one meal. 

A piglet looking somewhat deflated, or is doing the breast stroke?

A coffee shop to warm up in.

 

The snow on the return to warmer Madrid and then moving onto Salamanca tomorrow morning. 

TOLEDO TODAY

It was lucky that yesterday's attempt to go to Toledo failed. Duff information sent me back to the hostel and it was a dull cold grey day which would have been a disaster in such a fantastic place as Toledo. I don't know why it had never been on my 'must see' list before. 

After getting the correct information it was a fast and easy trip. About 8 stops on the metro from Chueca and then the bus station at Plaza Eliptica. Alsa buses run very frequent service and it costs almost 10 euro, whereas the train costs 18 euro and its only 15 min faster. The bus station is directly below the hill on which lies Toledo. 15 minutes walk and you're up there. 

Which way you look at it, Toledo is pretty stunning. I haven't seen such a photogenic place for quite a while. The museum, free for oldies like me, is vast and housed in the large fort on top of the hill. It seems from the exhibits that Spain has been at war ever since its conception. But all the same its well organised in a new state of the art building. Perhaps this one was a contributor to Spain's financial woes.

Weapons and armour are plentiful as well as masses of battle scenes and military parades like the one in front of the Madrid royal palace. These minatures seem to be common here. This 1899 Peugeot was the first motorized vehicle used by the Spanish army.

On the top floor I found relics of the Spanish Civil War, evidence of which is also clearly visible on the Santa Cruz abbey nearby. The scars of the bullets that hit it are from almost 80 years ago. 

The Moorish arch and narrow streets make this place a joy to wander. Hopefully, it will be a day trip to Segovia tomorrow, a bit further than Toledo and to the north of Madrid. Think my information is correct. It'll have to be as its the last day in Madrid. 

MADRID

I had a visit to the Madrid royal palace in mind before coming to Spain, in fact it was the only place on my 'to see' plan. 

But on the way to the palace I found the Coca Cola workers in a square gathering for a protest. I remembered hearing about Coca Cola's need, they say, to shed 750 employees at their Madrid plant. With 40% unemployment, the workers need this like a hole in the head. 

I said to a couple of Indians who were visiting the palace that even Europe had its maharajahs. Unfortunately cameras aren't permitted inside, but it really is sumptuously decorated, crammed full with priceless artifacts. So sorry nothing for the inside but here's some pix of the exterior. BTW. Its half price for oldies (5 Euros). Dont think I would have paid 10!

Not far from the palace there is a massive building which reminded me of those Stalinist constructions that were nicknamed 'Stalin Wedding Cakes'. There is so much similarity, was it by accident?

The weather has been pretty well perfect except it would have been even better with a few more degrees. 







But the pigeons like it.

MADRID AND THE METRO

Rising at 5.30 in the morning is never a happy occasion but unfortunately its sometimes unavoidable. I knew that the ride to Madrid would be the longest leg and was pleasantly surprised how easily the eight hour bus trip passed. As well as the almost empty motorway, the scenery was to say the least stark. Passing through areas where those ancient spaghetti westerns could have been made, where little flourishes except rising sandy bone dry rocky hills and some crumbling villages. Saw a couple of herds of sheep and goats being driven by small stocky sheep dogs, and it seemed on one instance - a donkey. The last stop, an hour before Madrid at a Repsol service station, could well have been in remotest Arizona. 

But once the bus had descended from the plateau, greenness appeared and then into the suburbs of Madrid. The temperature had been more or less a constant 6 or 7 degrees, according to the bus clock, until Madrid where it rose to a much better 14. At the Repsol filling station, a bitingly cold bone dry wind was blowing. 

Madrid metro is a vast network with so many connecting points that it was hard to work out how to get to my station - Chueca. 'Take your time Emson', I kept telling myself as I felt that rising nervousness beginning to take over. Rash decisions are the worst. After some help from an English speaking Spaniard, a rare breed, I eventually arrived and surfaced in a small square surrounded by cafes and restaurants. And the rest is history, the hostel is about 100 mt down the street on the left. Got a feeling that Barbieri Hostel  has ten time more atmosphere than the one in Barcelona. It lies in an old part of the city and sadly it also seems to be a very popular part of Madrid with prices to match. Looks like the supermarket for me. D

A DAY OF REST

In the last blog I mentioned the 'W' building. Along with the table sports, that building is in the top right.

Not so much to remember from today but the Cathedral was very busy as always with a queue snaking half way around the perimeter of the this ever so slightly popular attraction. The entertainment in the small park opposite the entrance was the massive bubble man. This one reminded me strangely of the Spanish economy, if you see what I mean!

How about a time lapse of the same thing. The kids there were thoroughly enjoying it. Something to do instead of getting ratty in the queue on the other side of the road. 

I am near the end of my stay in Barcelona and heading for Madrid on a 7am bus. Hopefully this evening's rain wont persist and early walk to the bus station will not be so bad.

A COUPLE OF DAYS IN BARCELONA

Air travel nowadays, with the cheapies, has become a bit of a nightmare as far as packing goes. Taking only cabin luggage, the art of knowing what to leave behind is paramount. However, it seems, so far, that little has been left out that really matters for a 3 week trip.

Arrived here for the second time, and looking out of the A320 window I spotted the blue sail shaped 'W' building on the shores of Barcelona. I knew then that the pilot hadn't taken me to Geneva instead, as happened a few days ago. 

The evening was cool but not cold as it was when I left Cz and the view from the back window of the hostel tells me that I am well and truly in Barcelona.

Cranes are still hovering over the organic spires of the Sagrada but it is believed that it wont be so many years, decades, or maybe centuries before the builders can finally put up their tools, and for most, probably retire. 

The day was dominated by the need to get a Madrid bus ticket and then a wander along the sea front to catch some of the sun that I hadn't had much experience of since Zambia 6 weeks ago. At least I found out what the Barcelona pensioners do on a pleasant day by the sea. 4 tables of old guys playing mostly dominoes which didn't seem a bad way of passing the time.